Darktable user manual download how to#

I am sure you will get some helpful replies on this great forum. I believe this is where highlight tone priority may prove useful if it applies to the raw exposure and not just the JPG (someone else might know the answer to this). I hate reconstructing highlights so exposing in the camera to avoid that is a great idea.

However, I do look at the RAW clipping indicator to decide if highlight reconstruction is needed and if all channels or just some are clipped. I just pay attention to the look of the scene and trust filmic to keep all the pixels within range. Also, I don’t often use the clipping indicators while processing.

So now I have placed the histogram on the left of the screen where I can ignore it. On one video about DT the presenter referred to using the histogram as painting by numbers where photography is about the look of the image. However, now that I predominately edit in DT I pay little or no attention to the histogram. I still pay a lot of attention to the histograms in these programs. This is very important when I choose to shot with a compact camera while travelling.įor many years I really focused on the histogram in processing images in programs like Lightroom and GIMP. However, if the data can all fit in the histogram I prefer to skew towards the right to minimise noise.

Darktable user manual download how to#

Some scenes contain a high dynamic range of lighting and either I choose to accept some clipping or I do multiple exposures to cover the range and combine them later (separate topic how to best do that). If all the data is within the histogram bounds then I believe I have captured all the data and can do what I want with it in processing with DT or any program. But I approach the problem of working with the camera’s histogram by looking for clipping on either side. I was surprised to discover a few days ago on this forum that the histogram is actually based on the JPEG rather than the RAW data in the camera. I am probably not going to be able to answer your question very well and defer to more knowledgeable people on the forum.

Sorry that doesn’t directly answer, but hopefully it is somehow helpful. What ended up working best for me was finding the flatest film simulation (pro std neg) and setting the jpeg profile even flatter.

On the Fuji, they have something call “natural live view” which on its face sounds like it’ll be helpful as it turns off any in camera film simulations… But it turns out that the histogram is then base on what is shown on the LCD screen, which means I clipped almost every shot by about 1/2 to 1+ stops. I generally have 2/3 stop head room when ETTR’ing. With the Nikon, setting the in camera jpeg to a flat profile results in the best raw exposure. You’ll likely need to experiment (or hear from another canon user) whether D+ is useful for a raw ETTR approach. Questions - when cameras display histogram - is it based on the RAW or on the processed embedded JPG preview?Īlways JPEG unless you’ve flashed an alternate camera firmware like Magic Lantern.